Going through the steps...

Ronin47 · Mar 6, 2026

So I am at a point where the Q50 is going to be out of warranty end of December and decided to mod the car. I am going to do this in steps as I feel that getting to know the car with the new upgrades will make me further intune to where I should go next.

First Step

AMS Red Alpha Coolant Expansion Tank
AMS Red Alpha Auxiliary Intercooler Tank
AMS Red Alpha Heat Exchanger

Second Step

Racebox TCM tune

Third Step

AMS Resonated 3" Full Down Pipes
Fast Intentions 3" Resonated Catback Exhaust with 14" resonated X-pipe and 14" touring mufflers (still looking for a Canadian source locally)
Racebox ECM 93 octane tune

I think this would be the best setup for me, but I am open to options and opinions. Have researched thoroughly and seemed to have found the right parts for the right sound and the right performance. I will run this for a bit before I replace the stock turbos with VRX60BBs and replace the intercoolers with something later. I want this to be a sleeper for sure, but has the grunt to move. Cold air intakes are not worth it for me given the fact most of the cold air intakes are exposed to engine heat that gets sucked in the intake. Putting a Wavetrac LSD is definitely in the future, just want to see how this goes before I make any plans to change the drivetrain.

sfvr30 · Mar 6, 2026

This is a great mod list. Small correction, but the FI Catback is 2.5in. It sounds great though, I have one. Personally, I’d wait until you purchased the upgraded turbo to go with full Downpipes. I’ve heard it’s safer and easier to do a basic 93 tune with just LDP’s. I’d put a little more thought and priority into the rear end, as well. I had traction issues before the tune, but damn man does my car want to put me into the median/sidewalk now. I have a traction concepts LSD kit at home but am currently waiting to install it as my parents won’t let me use the garage. I’ve also heard fantastic things about the TCM tune, and am looking to get one shortly.

dgibbs240 · Mar 6, 2026

Diff, bushings, and sway bars go a long way to improving the feel of these cars.

dgibbs240 · Mar 6, 2026

Sounds like you have a decent plan. Much better IMO to get to know the car with each mod vs just throwing a bunch of parts at it at once.

eljoker · Mar 6, 2026

I would do the TCU tune last or at the same time as the ECU. You will notice a bigger difference in drivability alone on the new RR6. But a solid list for sure.

Is 93 relatively available? You could always tune on 91 and run 93. I've been told once your on 93 you can only run 93. Still trying to see the hard math on that.

djrice123 · Mar 6, 2026

Fast Intentions 3" Resonated Catback Exhaust with 14" resonated X-pipe and 14" touring mufflers (still looking for a Canadian source locally)

Theres no Canadian source locally. All other places will be buying from FI and then marking it up to you. Everyone will be a drop shipper. Just buy it direct from FI. Since I work in the auto industry, they gave me $65 off the shipping costs. I dealt with Kevin (operations manager) directly. This was in 2023 so not sure what the price is now with all the tariffs. Purchased during their BF sales so got 10% off. Total was $1729 USD shipped. Shipping was $290 USD

Avedis53 · Mar 6, 2026

There is no 3" FI CBE for the Q50, only 2.5". With 14" resonators, the current cost is $1724 USD plus shipping (additional shipping charge outside the US that may include tariffs). There is currently a 2-4 week lead time for fabrication.

Boxy · Mar 7, 2026

Chiming in to say I love that you're doing the TCM tune first!! From a daily driving standpoint, the TCM tune improves the experience leaps and bounds more than the ECM tuned for performance which is generally only felt above 50% throttle and usually only necessary at WOT.

Ronin47 · Mar 7, 2026

Thanks everyone for the kudos and the sound advice. So I am going to change the plan a little bit it to make more sensible and lesser of a incline to where I want to reach with the vehicle. My main concern right now is after the TCM tune, given the fact there will be a vast improvement in drivability, but with minor degradation in stability. I am thinking about beefing up the suspension as mentioned in previous posts, however I am worried about NVH. Changing the bushings from rubber to polyurethane will improve the stiffness of the suspension and the handling of vehicle, but I feel it may takeaway some of the comfort of the vehicle we have today. So I am looking for suggestions on sway bars for front and back as I think this would be the best bang for the buck. Coilovers and ride height reduction is somewhat out of the question as I like the height now and again, I am looking for the sleeper look not the lowdown ricer look. So, the steps just got a bit bigger and I am going to make this thread a journey for me. I won't be doing the work, but I will have my on hand Infiniti Master Techs doing the job correctly. I don't think there will be a need for me to upload pictures up as there have been plenty posted before and it seems to be a routine thing to do for the most part for modding the Q50.

Third Step

3" Resonated lower down pipes (recommendation please)
Fast Intentions 2.5" Resonated Catback Exhaust with 14" resonated X-pipe and 14" touring mufflers

Fourth Step

Sway bars front and back for the AWD chassis (recommendations please)
Polyurethane transmission mount (recommendation please)
Rear differential brace (recommendation please)
Tires (recommendations please). I am leaning to the Michelin PS4S, but I would like an all-season tire, even though I have a set of dedicated winters. Rim size will remain the same. OEM 19s for spring, summer, fall and 18s for winter.

Fifth Step

Racebox custom 91 octane RCM tune

Final Step

AMS 3" Resonated full down pipes
VRX60BB ball bearing turbochargers
Racebox custom 91 tune to tie everything in. (93 is available every where but not on some Shell stations). I can put 93 and still gain a slight performance increase without the fear of damaging the vehicle.

Chris2997 · Mar 8, 2026

Pictures makes the thread a lot better.

Shows you’re taking everything seriously and aren’t just talking out of your ass.

I feel like the engagement & content would be better.

Please post more pictures! PSA for everyone.

eljoker · Mar 8, 2026

For NVH, I have been adding more and more Sound deading. I work at a body shop now and have a bunch of free time and access to more tools and space so I'll be going in and just doing the whole vehicle every nook and cranny. Yeah I know it has more weight but it's not that big of a deal when I'm not out there chasing record.

Overall I started to notice a huge improvement on NVH. Even the sound system sounds better and I don't think it's placebo.

Mr 8 dollars even · Mar 8, 2026

eljoker said:
For NVH, I have been adding more and more Sound deading. I work at a body shop now and have a bunch of free time and access to more tools and space so I'll be going in and just doing the whole vehicle every nook and cranny. Yeah I know it has more weight but it's not that big of a deal when I'm not out there chasing record.

Overall I started to notice a huge improvement on NVH. Even the sound system sounds better and I don't think it's placebo.

What brand sound deadening are you using and where have you started to add it that you have already noticed an improvement?

djrice123 · Mar 8, 2026

Rear Diff Brace - Z1, built good quality and looks good and install/fitment was easy as cake.

3" Resonated LDPS - Boosted 6 Autowerks. I see they have 4" full DPs now cray cray (anyone run these)

Tires Rec- Since you want all-season, either Conti ExtremecontactDWS06+ (what I run) or Michelin Pilot Sport AS4

Chris2997 · Mar 8, 2026

Embarrassingly, I have yet to install the diff brace or the slave master cylinder brace I purchased last year, maybe I’ll do it tomorrow.

Did you feel any difference after install? I’m assuming it’s more of a subtle cautionary mod.

Ronin47 · Mar 10, 2026

The one I found was from Torque Solutions. Somehow my memory tells me they aren’t a good brand to deal with, so I am looking for recommendations for that too.

Ronin47 · Mar 14, 2026

I ended up with going with a B6A resonated LDP. I looked at Spool, but they don't come with a 3" to 2.5" adaptor for the OEM exhaust.

Chris2997 · Mar 17, 2026

Just found these, the more I learn about aftermarket mod companies the more I see they rarely manufacture anything, especially not here in the US.

I should have bought these for $60 plus shipping instead of paying $440 at the time. Alibaba for the win honestly lets go China, if I’m not going to receive a solid USA product anyway might as well buy from the source.

dgibbs240 · Mar 30, 2026

After making my own version of these using aftermarket "2.5in" MAF housings, I wouldn't trust them. most aren't measured the same as the OEM housings (2.5in ID) and will cause codes. The only ones I would consider are those like B6A and AMS with the machined adapters for the larger MAF housings.

Ronin47 · Mar 17, 2026

I always wondered about open air intake. Don’t they suck in the engine heat also? Pretty much can’t call them cold air intakes unless you place them away from the engine heat.

Chris2997 · Mar 17, 2026

Yeah I’m really considering putting my stock air boxes back on.

I found these that look like B6A’s resonated DPs.

Titanium Automotive Exhaust Exhaust system Pipe Silver

Anyone want to go halfies on 5 AMS Down Pipes? The minimum order is 5. But AMS sells the same ones for $500+ a piece.

Exhaust system Automotive Exhaust Muffler Carbon fibers Pipe

Ronin47 · Mar 17, 2026

Like i mentioned before I went with the B6A resonated 3” downpipes. I would rather have American steel even though it may have been supplied by us Canucks to be a better choice than Chinese steel. I highly doubt they would manufacture a product from good materials to make it cheaper than anyone else. Besides the underbody is a harsh environment so how long will that last?

Chris2997 · Mar 17, 2026

Hey man, I’m not sure if you’re implying that what you bought comes from Canada, but I’m literally showing you B6A products on Alibaba, I’ve met Parish or whatever his name is, he admits it’s all Chinese.

Big possibility I just screenshot his source without his brand name on it.

Ronin47 · Mar 17, 2026

For F$&K SAKES!! I should have gotten from Alibaba if I had known!! Once bitten, twice Why as the saying goes. 😓😡

Ronin47 · Mar 21, 2026

UPDATE:

Got my local dealership to install the AMS HX, AUX tank and the overflow tank. They got me for an arm and a leg, but I got discounts on the labour rate and the hours taken. It took them 9 hours (paid for 6), because of the AUX tank was a pain in the arse to install and bleed the system. Unfortunately, the vehicle is going back to the dealership as I got a P14B5 code. From what I understand, bleeding the system is quite difficult, so I assume there is air in the system that needs to be bled again. Hopefully, the intercooler pump is not damaged, but I think it may have gone into some sort of protection mode to protect the pump. I certainly hope, I don;t need to purchase a new water pump, but then it should still be covered under my extended warranty purchased when I got the vehicle.

Chris2997 · Mar 24, 2026

That’s $1500 in labor huh? Assuming 6 x $250? I’m surprised the dealership took up a modification job. I like that, that way if anything happens you have proof of dealer approved installation.

Mr 8 dollars even · Mar 21, 2026

You would think a dealership would know how to properly bleed the Heat Exchanger coolant system and have the right tools. Hopefully they get that sorted out for you soon.

BlaQBetty · Mar 21, 2026

My dealership AND I both have the right tools. Speaking from experience (both mine and my dealership's), refilling the system with a fender tank is an absolute pain in the ass.

Ronin47 · Mar 21, 2026

I have made an appointment for Monday morning to have it resolved. Hopefully it will be sorted out, before I go and do the next planned mI’d to the car.

Duncan · Mar 23, 2026

The only reliable way to fill/bleed these cooling systems is with vacuum filler. The radiator caps are not the high point in either system and there are loops that will trap air if you just try and bleed them without a vacuum fill

sfvr30 · Mar 24, 2026

Not sure if you’re talking about the CAC or engine coolant system, I thankfully haven’t had to deal with the latter. That said, I didn’t have a vacuum bleeder and I bled my CAC system just fine, it just took forever. On top of that, I have the fender tank, which makes filling the system in the first place a huge pain, had to use a bike pump to give the pumps a boost and force some of the coolant into the system because the tank is upstream from the pumps. It’s possible. Not fun, but possible.

Ronin47 · Mar 24, 2026

They bled out the air and gave me a Consult report on the water pump being in spec when running so I am going to give it a couple of days before I run another diag on the car. Fingers crossed.

Ronin47 · Mar 24, 2026

Yup. Sure damn close to it. I didn’t want my mechanic to futz around with it since he hasn’t done a turbo car at all. Sure enough, I had to go back because of air in the system and left the car there for half the day. When you have a good relationship with the service team and a little bribery, they don‘t mind doing it for you and give you a little of a break on cost. All done now, I hope. Next items on the list is the rear differential brace and the transmission mount from Z1. Once done, TCM tune by Racebox.

Ronin47 · Mar 26, 2026

Just put on the Z1 transmission mount and the Z1 brace on the differential, mechanic said it was easy peasy to install but did warn me, that removing the 3 diff bolts off of the differential may cause a leak over time due to the sealant becoming dry. I will monitor it with every oil change just to make sure it doesn't. I do have plans to replace the differential with a Quaif LSD or a WaveTrac LSD in the near future. I am just testing out the new additions before I start with the EcuTek TCM tune and I know that will be interesting.

Prophecy99 · Mar 26, 2026

thats interesting, you would think there would be someone that experienced that from the differential brace before though... we would have heard about it by now.

i had a quick thought during install with those 3 bolts as well... but to me they were tightened right back up 5 mins later after the install.

Duncan · Mar 26, 2026

I reckon your mechanic is right about the risk. The rear diff cover is sealed with silicone that was (probably) installed 10 years ago when the car was built. To install the Z1 brace you have to remove all 3 lower bolts which leads to the risk the case will separate there, and when you bolt it back together the old silicone may not take up the space exactly, whether it is torqued correctly or not

Mine was fine too, no leaks in the year it has been installed, but good on your mechanic for thinking it through and mentioning the ptoential instead of just blindly doing the job

Chris2997 · Mar 26, 2026

Would some thread locker help? I was thinking about this the other day. To prevent the vibrations of daily driving from loosening the bolts over time.

Ronin47 · Mar 29, 2026

@Boxy I am about to pull the trigger on getting the RE7R TCM tune for my Q50. I was wondering if there is any dependancy on having the ECM tuned prior to the TCM tune? The question is, since the TCM relies on on the ECM torque mapping for its shift strategy, would this not be a requirement? At this point I am not doing the ECM tune until I get my LDPs installed on the vehicle. If the requirement is ECM before TCM, then I would install the LDPs first then ECM tune before the TCM tune. Can you shed some light on this? I know that others here have had their ECM tuned prior to having their TCM tuned, so I am hoping that if I do the TCM tune first I am not damaging the transmission in the process.

sfvr30 · Mar 30, 2026

I would wait and do both at the same time, but I don’t believe either is truly dependent on the other. Having both at the same time would be ideal. I wouldn’t worry about damage.

Going through the steps...

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