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Differential/Axle Removal

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182 views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  Ma11y  
#1 ·
Hey all!
Having a sh*t time. I’m currently removing my differential so I can haul it 30 minutes north and get the TC kit put in. I am stuck. The axles will not come out enough for me to drop the differential. Everything else is done and the differential is now just sitting on the jack and axles, not sure how I can finish this job without before 6 today. It’s almost 3. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I know some of you have done similar things so if you have any tips they make save my day. Thanks!
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#2 ·
I didn't perform the install of my LSD, but I did stumble upon this video. Looks like he uses a crow bar using the housing as his fulcrum while also lowing the diff and wiggling.

Good Luck!

 
owns 2018 Infiniti Q50 Sport
#4 ·
I didn't perform the install of my LSD, but I did stumble upon this video. Looks like he uses a crow bar using the housing as his fulcrum while also lowing the diff and wiggling.

Good Luck!

Thank you for commenting. I tried to go by this video, and I love SCS but I had more luck with the only other video about removing the diff, it was more detailed. I have also been doing what he is essentially since this morning, with no luck. It seems I can jack one side of the diff up and almost get one axle all the way out, but that’s the closest I’ve come. Every time I try to balance the two, the other will go back in when I pry on one side.
 
#5 ·
I did not remove the axle nuts but but as far as I’m aware it is not necessary, it wasn’t done in the SCS video. My next step may be to remove my calipers and shock bolts so I can move the other end of the axle.
 
#8 ·
Ok yeah that would probably help and if that's not enough room then removing the axle nut and sliding the axle out entirely would do the trick
 
#9 ·
Yeah I just really want to avoid that axle nut cause I don’t want to torque something to 150 million ft-lbs on jackstands. I guess it’s probably not a big deal though. I just want to get one axle out so I can take the other one, but it’s almost like there’s just not enough wiggle room.
 
#10 ·
A couple ugga duggas to the axle nut with a half inch impact and you'll be fine lol
 
#11 ·
I think removing the strut bolts will give you the room you're looking for and removing the axle nut is a backup plan if that doesn't work. Doing this job on jack stands is a pain in the butt to begin with so obviously you're going to run into issues like this laying on your back. Being a dealer tech in my past spoiled me and I absolutely hate doing any type of work on jack stands besides like a oil change that is relatively a quick job
 
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#12 ·
Yeah it’s how I’ve had to learn since I was 17 and can barely even get permission to work in my parents’ garage. It’s tough but it’s how my car was built and it’s a good teacher. You have to improvise frequently.
 
#13 ·
Everything went according to plan until trying to dislodge the half-shafts. My neighbor brought over a better prybar set than I had, and after trying to gingerly pry on the trigger wheel, which I know you're not supposed to do, we simply used a little more muscle and "popped-out" the splines. Despite what the SM says, the spacers just inboard of the trigger wheel can't be used as a prying point, because they never make it past the diff case. After sliding the half-shaft splines out, I moved the diff out from under the car. I wrapped the rubber bungees around each half-shaft to keep them from falling towards the floor, which, if left unsupported, would put unwanted stress on the outer CV joints.

You can read the entire post IridiumRS400:
 
#15 ·
What is the "TC Kit".

FWIW, OP, from the same spot you were in I lowered the diff somewhat to preload the axles a bit, the pried (light but firmly) on the ABS ring. There is no other point to get at them from, and there is a circlip on the end of each axle holding it into the diff that needs to be overcome.

Undoing things at the hub end can't help because it is the diff end that needs to be released
 
#17 ·
I used my QuickJacks to elevate the Q about 2 feet off the ground. I placed the HF Transmission Jack underneath the differential case. I un-bolted the rear diff, disconnected the driveshaft, then lowered the diff case on transmission jack, and then used a pry-bar and popped-off the half-shafts enough to disengage the circlip from its matching groove in the diff. I continued to lower the diff until the splines were completely clear of the diff. Like TurboNut, I used rubber bungees to hold-up the half-shafts with the differential removed.

@sfvr30 - it's likely the issue is your Q isn't high enough to enable you to drop the diff low enough to get the half-shafts to totally disengage. I'd figure out some way to get your Q higher off the ground, to enable the diff to drop low enough.

Note: I didn't mess with any axle nuts or suspension arms during R&R of the rear diff.
 
#18 ·
Yes🙌🏼 messing with the axle nut and removing suspension is swimming out way to far into the deep end. Swift pry bar action on all sides and the thing let's itself down pretty easy. 60lbs if it's been drained. It can get messy quick if start loosening other things.
If you dont have bungees handy chaining zipties from the axles to the subframe works. Same with the drive shaft.

@IridiumRS400 Z1 motorsports is mailed mine back to me today. Will probably end up hitting you up about getting it back in😅
 
#21 ·
I had my Q50 diff removed by Nissan to have the 3 oil seals replaced. If not too late then I would invest in having those replaced, if not part of the installation.

IMPORTANTLY: I can't remember how many bolts hold the Diff in place but I believe they are one-time bolts that SHOULD NOT be reused so make sure they are replaced when reinstalling.