Serpentine belt alternative-no dealer

Ddnspider · May 17, 2019

After someone on here posted a random gates part number but no info about the stock 3.0t belt, i contacted gates and was sent to this page:
http://navigates.gates.com/AddedValue.aspx?PartNumber=K060766A

Now that we actually have belt specs, we can find a replacement that doesn't require going to the dealer.
Material EDPM, Aramid Cord
OE Comparison Rating OE Exact
Section K
Number of Ribs 6
Top Width (in) .807
Top Width (mm) 20
Outside Circumference (in) 77.25
Outside Circumference (mm) 1962

I did a search through Dayco to find something close and came up with:
5060770

Rib Profile W Profile
Metric Part 6PK1955
Effective Length (in) 77.10
Top Width (in) 0.82
Thickness 0.17
No. of Ribs 6
Rib Depth Standard
Compound EPDM, Aramid Reinforced
Backside Material Rubber

It's about a tenth of an inch shorter and wider. I'm wondering if this will help keep the belt in place since they have a greater tendency to get thrown when they wear and stretch in length. Also, the cost is about $16 and available from many vendors. Thoughts?

IridiumRS400 · May 17, 2019

Ddnspider said:
After someone on here posted a random gates part number but no info about the stock 3.0t belt...

That's me (raises hand). Guilty as charged.

Ddnspider · May 17, 2019

IridiumRS400 said:
That's me (raises hand). Guilty as charged.

Advanced Auto Parts carries CARQUEST belts which are made by Gates. When I punched in my '17 Q60 Red Sport, I got this:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c3/serpentine-belts/15596?krypto=Is3IIQcLFlM1TDA%2Fw2EqX3KiexHfsAZMNJLC9eT3DRRT6vDFdwOYHzLZgF%2FrW4RCt7eLqTUrs%2B7e8V1oM4%2BYat2vnSIAtIscnq7RdabnYNCGjiMDn9%2FI%2FfmK9JnXyAA3N06OCDq8ZlQUo0h241U1%2BjAh9beM0VSeJhXkdavx60ZTx%2BiTUxlWTjKOGzYEQtvNqWdKE6uWdHlCghyluUxIn5XSLPq9CdLucshBILrWwtQhstpbT2DCaKGRsP54oF%2FkukahTu1tc7ogp7jbWeP0ad5vpDJHJuZbdgbRZQswn9ccqnhmgpFbTTB0SwZvapGf7jph8Pk9UU3LSMwXn%2FvoOA%3D%3D

Three (3) different Gates P/Ns... hmmmm...

None of those say direct fit, so I don't think any of those will work. Have your bought any of those?

BigHeadClan · May 17, 2019

Subscribed curious if this will work and if it will resolve the issue... But given the TSB is for a Pulley being out of alignment I'm not sure this would solve the issue...
If a better quality belt was the fix I think Nissan would have just replaced them with a new product/manufacture and been done with it.

Ddnspider · May 17, 2019

had I not JUST bought a new belt from Z1 I would buy the one I linked to. If someone wants to buy my OEM belt I'll buy 1 of these ?

Loring · May 22, 2019

I've got one of those, but there's enough room to get it with a ratchet.

The belts getting thrown have to do with alignment. I don't think stretch is a factor, but I'd always prefer a belt that was .1 short than .1 long.

Pillboy · May 23, 2019

Yep, better too tight than too loose.

Ummm...what are we talking about?

Ddnspider · May 22, 2019

I would argue a tighter belt can tolerate more misalignment than a loose one.

Ddnspider · May 24, 2019

Belt and spark plugs are done....how is it that the plugs we're easier than the belt!!!??? Also, I'm not entirely convinced that the issue with this whole belt deal is less about the AC alignment and more about the tensioner and belt routing. Several of the pulleys have lousy belt wrap and the tensioner is BY FAR the hardest to turn I've ever seen. Typically a 3/8 ratchet with a little turn loosens it. All I could get in there was a 3/8 ratchet and it was a BEAR to crank enough to get the Allen key in the lock mechanism. Plugs all day over a belt.

BigHeadClan · May 24, 2019

Hah well in fairness the VQ37 is the exact same way, spark plugs are super easy but I really don't look forward to doing my belt. Thanks for the status update though, I kind of suspected it would be the pulley's
or tensioners themselves. The belt being the issue seems far to simple a fix that could happen very quickly on the factory side.

With that said we shall see if this newer belt is more durable and less prone to slipping.

bigmanfriday · Jan 5, 2020

I just replaced mine, here are the details
Tools
Jack and Jack stands
10mm socket
serpentine belt tool i rented from O'reillys.
Random allen key to lock tensioner.

I tried to take the belt off from the top but I had to resort to jacking the car up (only the passenger front side) and taking the belt off from underneath. Make sure you jack the side up high, I had to go back and jack mine up some more because the 1st time i tried to use the tool, it grounded out. I notice some people had problems using a normal 3/8 rachet so I just went straight for the tool and it was a breeze releasing the tension and installing the allen to lock the tensioner. The real problem was getting my hands between the block and the radiator to line up the belt. I scraped and wailed the life out of my arms, so much so i was surprised I wasn't bleeding when i finished the job. The job itself is easy just time consuming, jacking up, removing tray, climbing under, un-sticking your arm then climbing above aligning, un-sticking your arm rubbing the bruises, and repeating over and over before getting it right.

Truly if there was an inch more space at the front of the engine and no plastic tray below, the job would take 5-7 minutes. So go brave.

bigmanfriday · Jan 5, 2020

Oh yeah and I used an Ebay Nissan Group belt PN# 11720-5CA0A
My car is a 2017 3.0t

Subarashi · Jun 5, 2020

Ddnspider said:
After someone on here posted a random gates part number but no info about the stock 3.0t belt, i contacted gates and was sent to this page:
http://navigates.gates.com/AddedValue.aspx?PartNumber=K060766A

Now that we actually have belt specs, we can find a replacement that doesn't require going to the dealer.
Material EDPM, Aramid Cord
OE Comparison Rating OE Exact
Section K
Number of Ribs 6
Top Width (in) .807
Top Width (mm) 20
Outside Circumference (in) 77.25
Outside Circumference (mm) 1962

I did a search through Dayco to find something close and came up with:
5060770

Rib Profile W Profile
Metric Part 6PK1955
Effective Length (in) 77.10
Top Width (in) 0.82
Thickness 0.17
No. of Ribs 6
Rib Depth Standard
Compound EPDM, Aramid Reinforced
Backside Material Rubber

It's about a tenth of an inch shorter and wider. I'm wondering if this will help keep the belt in place since they have a greater tendency to get thrown when they wear and stretch in length. Also, the cost is about $16 and available from many vendors. Thoughts?

Bringing back dead thread
Have you tried the Dayco part number: 5060770 ?

As far as I know from just quick google searching

Gates: K060766A

OEM: 11720-5CA0A

Revised/New OEM Part#: 11720-5CA0B

Ddnspider · Jun 5, 2020

Ever since I swapped my belt to a new one I haven't had any chirping or issues.

Avedis53 · Jun 6, 2020

So have you all reached a consensus on the best replacement belt?

JohnInNH · Jun 6, 2020

Gates belt part #= P/N K060766A is the part to get. Better than the OEM belt. I keep one in my trunk.

socalsupra · Jul 12, 2020

So I took the Q up to Angeles Crest hwy (SoCal) yesterday in 100 deg heat chasing a Mclaren 520. Everything was going good manual shifting and racing at 5000 rpm for the most part, then a screaming chirping sound started coming from the engine after slowing down in a corner then stepping on it. My car has never been pushed this hard and I have never heard this sound before. Today when driving down a backstreet and racing a 370 Z the sound was not present. Is this the dreaded belt issue? I have attached two pictures , one of a timing mark that shows it is off center, and the other of my perfectly good belt. What exactly needs to be done to stop this chirping sound?

Oh and I kicked that Zs ass!

BigHeadClan · Jul 13, 2020

socalsupra said:
So I took the Q up to Angeles Crest hwy (SoCal) yesterday in 100 deg heat chasing a Mclaren 520. Everything was going good manual shifting and racing at 5000 rpm for the most part, then a screaming chirping sound started coming from the engine after slowing down in a corner then stepping on it. My car has never been pushed this hard and I have never heard this sound before. Today when driving down a backstreet and racing a 370 Z the sound was not present. Is this the dreaded belt issue? I have attached two pictures , one of a timing mark that shows it is off center, and the other of my perfectly good belt. What exactly needs to be done to stop this chirping sound?

Oh and I kicked that Zs ass!

Given the one off event it could be the belt alignment problem as others have already spoken of, it could also be that coolant over-flowed a bit due to the heat and dripped on the belt when you were pushing it and caused the chirping.

With that said.... How fun is Angeles Crest in the Q50?

QFittyRS · Jul 12, 2020

Looks like there is some splashed coolant.

Avedis53 · Jul 13, 2020

Is the picture of your belt tensioner when the engine was hot or cold? Could be a worn or loose belt. A new serpentine belt should show the indicator "B" within the "C" range and if the belt stretches and the indicator "B" is outside the "D" range, then it's time to change belts. You're getting close and it may be the reason you're hearing squeal.

As far as alignment issue, check your idler pulley and see how far back the belt is from the edge of the idler pulley.

The distance from the front edge of the idler pulley and the front edge of the belt should be at least 3.5 mm. If it's less, then you should schedule an A/C compressor alignment with your Infiniti dealership.

socalsupra · Jul 13, 2020

Here is a picture of my belt tensioner, it seems within spec. Is changing the belt that hard? Thanks Avedis!

JohnInNH · Jul 13, 2020

Skip to 2:30.. It's a DYI video of how to change your belt by Boost in Motion.
However I recommend using a Gates belt #P/N K060766A, as it's better than the OEM one. I have 32K on my OEM belt and it's good. I will have the new Gates belt installed when I have the turbos installed.

YMMV

socalsupra · Jul 14, 2020

The engine was cold when I checked that belt mark indicator.
The coolant was from when I over filled the coolant system adding the frozen boost 118

Angeles crest cruise was fun, I really pushed the Q in the corners (firehawks indy) 285x30x20 on the rear with Vossen CV3. The sport brakes performed great also, and temps were good being monitored by ecutek.

IridiumRS400 · Jul 26, 2020

With just over 25k miles, I changed out my OEM serpentine belt for the Gates serpentine belt today. I did the belt change as preventative maintenance. I was not experiencing any screeching or abnormal belt wear.

Remove/move the following items:

Remove the Intake shroud
Remove two (2) 10 mm nuts for Radiator Tank and move it as far left and aft, secure with bungee cord
Remove two (2) 10 mm nuts for Intercooler Tank
Remove one (1) 10 mm bolt for clamp holding coolant tube - pushed it to driver's side to allow the Intercooler tank to move out of the sight line to the belt tensioner
Remove two (2) 10 mm bolts for Fan Module<?> which was also in the line-of-sight to the belt tensioner
Remove two (2) 10 mm bolts securing the Rt AMS Intake Filter Box Top to the Radiator Support & Rt Fender Support. Remove two (2) Allen bolts to allow the Filter Housing (Top) to be removed. Remove plug to access clamp for the Air Filter Element (my plugs is gone), and remove the Element. Remove the two (2) Allen bolts securing the bottom of the Filter Housing to MAF Housing. Note: One of the Allen bolts was completely loosened from the stand-off (outboard). I'm glad I was in there to correct the situation (applied Loctite to both Allen bolts prior to installation).
With the Filter Box removed, I could know use a 3/8 drive ratchet and an extension bar (from my floor jack) to rotate the tensioner enough to install an Allen Wrench to lock the tensioner in position. Note: The handy-dandy tool I referenced earlier in this thread did not work - it engaged fine, but rotating it towards the passenger side - it ran out room to rotate further (to get the tensioner holes to line-up). Oh well...
Once the tensioner was locked out, I proceeded to remove the belt.
Installation was the reverse of removal. However, I needed to jack-up the driver's side to remove the belly pan, as I needed access from below to make sure the new belt was routed-around the A/C Compressor Pulley correctly. After the belt exits the bottom of the A/C Compressor Pulley, it has to be pushed up towards the black Idler Pulley, and then back down to the Engine Pulley, and it's impossible to do that from above (at least for me).

Here's what my belt tensioner indicator looks like (engine off) after driving 12 miles with the new Gates belt installed:

What is looked like last year (April 2019)

Sorry for the lack of contrast - the indicator is just inside the right hash mark, as viewed from this direction.

FWIW, on my short drive, the engine did seem quieter with the new belt.

Kizzle2 · Jul 26, 2020

I just ended up going with the OEM belt, which means I'll probably be replacing it in another 35k. Luckily my '16 does not seem affected by the misalignment issue, just a inferior belt for the tension and heat it endures.

Here is what is looked like @48k.

Ddnspider · Jul 26, 2020

I didn't remove anything other than the upper radiator plastic shroud and the lower belly plastic shroud to change the belt.

IridiumRS400 · Jul 26, 2020

Maybe having a Red Sport and/or AWD makes a difference in the amount of real estate available around the belt tensioner, combine that with my big hands, and I needed those parts mentioned above removed to provide the room to rotate the tensioner with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a pipe, and give me maneuvering space to thread the new belt around the pulleys.

Ddnspider · Jul 26, 2020

I'm no small lad myself, but I could see the AWD causing some trouble. I will say it was definitely the most difficult tensioner I've ever tried to turn.

BigHeadClan · Jul 26, 2020

Aye that's always one thing I noticed about the VR30 motor, hardly any working room (even compared to the VQ37) and its engine bay is kind of a mess in terms
of cable routing. Hope they clean it up a bit with the Z and upcoming redesign of the Q.

socalsupra · Aug 11, 2020

2018 Q50 S was not that easy to replace with a new gates, it took about an hour. You have to remove a few things after the cover like the upper radiator hose (Leaks Fluid when taking off). Also a small electrical box with two 10mm bolt and 1 small clamped hose . The one tension pulley is where you guide the belt blindly up and behind , the rest you can see. I always overfill after dropping fluid, you just need to drive hard and heat it up and it will burp it out like a baby to the correct level.

Ddnspider · Aug 11, 2020

I still don't understand how I did it by only removing the bottom plastic belly pan and the upper radiator cover and everyone else is taking all kinds of stuff off.

socalsupra · Aug 11, 2020

Maybe everything can be done from the bottom. From the top there is no room unless you remove multiple things.

socalsupra · Aug 11, 2020

I also did not need to remove the passenger air box which is a PAIN IN THE ASS to install.

Subarashi · Aug 12, 2020

Running the new OEM part#: 11720-5CA0B

I was using this video as a reference, but I ended up just letting my mechanic do it. Not sure how he handled it but he said it was a PITA to do it.

Serpentine belt alternative-no dealer

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